Method of making shoes



J. s. KAM-BORIAN 2,393,991

' METHOD- 0F MAKING SHOES Original Filed April 50, 1943 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Feb. 5, 1946. J. SyKAMBORlAN METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Original Filed April so, 1943 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 :Feb. 5, 1946. I i J, 5 KAMBQRIANH 2,393,991

I METHOD OF MAKING SHOES- Original Filed April so, 1943 4 Sheets-Sheet.

Feb. 5, 1946.

J. S. KAMBORIAN METHOD OF MAKING SHOES 4 Shets-Sheet 4 01: iginal Filed April 50, 1943 aria??- M i/ M PatentedFeb. 5, 1946 a METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Jacob S. Kamborian, West Newton, Mass,

Qriginal application April 30, 1943, s l

485.,1,3.L,1)ivided and this application January 6, 1945, Serial l lo. 571,645

9 Qlaims.

l his invention pertains to the manufacture of footwear and relates more especially to a novel method of making shoes of the sliprlasted or socalled platform type, this application being a division of the copending application Ser. No. 4:85;,131 filed April 30, 19,43. Shoes of this kind are characterized by having a very thick, usually soft and resilient middle sole interposed between an insole and/or socklimng and the outer sole. The marginal edge off this middle sole is concealed and protected by a deep flexible strip or Wrapper Whose upper edge is united to the insole and upper by an inseam, and whose lower margin is interposed between and cemented to the middle and outer soles. In some styles of shoe the thick soft middle sole is confined to the forepart of the shoe. In other stylesthe middle sole extends from toe to heel, and in some instances comprises a shank and heel portion which may be of rigid material, for example wood.

To insure a neat and trim appearance, par-: ticular to provide a sharp, clearly defined angle Where the wrapper embraces the upper and lower edges, respectively, of the middle sole, and to. provide a close, firm union of the outer and middle soles, it is necessary to subject the stri or wrap: per (usually of thin, flexible material such as soft upper leather, textile fabric or the like) to a stretching operation whereby it is drawn snugly about the marginal edge of the middle sole and lasted in over the bottom of the latter, to which it is permanently united, as by means of adhesive. This operation has heretofore customarily been done by hand with the assistance of lasting pinche se i e i u dif icu of, eeeehhh eh ment at the heel and ball portions of the shoe. The middle sole is yielding and resilient, and since hand-stretching involves seizure and stretching" of the welt material at a successionof separated i about t e mar n oi the shoe, it is e difhcult by such means to obtain sharp unbroken l nes. he e the r pe r p ends. ar hh ed e of h d l le; to ob h e tha smooth hw f hk esi eeh n of th Wrap e rtia ath! a t i hetie of t e h et a d fere arte. r to prevent la e l hi t'q h midd e eel and/or the heel member during this handstretching operation.

In some shoes of this type, particularly in openh l ho s h r t e m d e sole erm nat s e proximately at the plane of the heel breast, it is u om a a pr liminar step. t ind the d o e. mid so e a t h ert-ion with a re ativ l n r ow b on or w ap er. sepa ate from a Whieh e tends lon th shan t r h rt and toe.

Pr t ih eet he th r e t a per, that is to say, draivi git snugly about the edge of the middle sole, bending it in over the edge of the middle sole and laying its marginal portion dow against the middle sole, it is essential to adjust the rear end of the middle sole relatively to the upper so that both rear ends of the wi e f r nert manner w ll h-re'he l e the forward ends of the heel binding ribbon-an r t n whi h m he i e e te th a tin operation known as spindling. No adequate means for holding the parts during this adjustment has been available heretofore, The term in-lasting as here used is believed proper in View of th ana o y b een th ope ions e m d n t W apper material and those perfom ed iipeh he ma n 9f th pe ro e in he manufacture of other types of shoes.

In carryingout the objects of the invention, I provide adequate means'for supporting a last so as o ita e pro e elat ve adju t of the middle sole and upper; means operative to hold the. middle sole in place during the inlasting of the wrapper; means for pressing the middle sole, 7

throughout its entire length (including shank and heel portions) firmly against the shoe bottom (in fact actually to compress it so as temporarily to decrease its thickness), and for so holding the parts during inlasting of the wrapper; means operative simultaneously to exert an upward and inward lasting pull upon the wrapper at opposite sides, respectively, of the shoe, for example at the junction of the shank and forepart; means operative to pull the wrapper up and to last it in over the heel end of the middle sole, particularly when the middle sole includes a rigid heel block or wedge; and provide a novel method of inlasting the wrapper of a shoe of this type.

Other and further "objects and advantages of the invention will be shown and described in the following more detailed description and by reference to the accompanying drawings wherein:

Fig. 1 is a fragmentary side elevation, partly in vertical sectiomillustrating one form of mechanism useful in the practice of the process of the present invention;

Fig. a fragmentary rear elevation of the mechanism of Fig. 1 i

Fig. 3 is a perspective view or a set of grippers constituting an element of the mechanism of Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 4 is a side elevation of a forepart pressureapplying device designed to be used in substitution for the presser device of the mechanism of 1 and 2 Fig. 4 is a fragmentary section of the parts shown in Fig. 4 indicating the roller as engaged in the cam slot.

- Fig. 5 is a bottom view of a'middle sole, such' as may be employed in the manufacture of the assembled thereon and united by an inseam which also attaches the strip or wrapper;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 7 but showing the parts after assembly of the middle sole therewith and illustrating a step in the operation of inlasting the wrapper;

Fig. 8 is a bottomview of a middle sole of modi fied construction; I Fig. 9 is a section on the line 9-9 of Fig. 8; Fig. 10 is a section on the line IIl--Ifl of Fig. 9;

' Fig. 11 is a fragmentary side elevation partly in vertical section, illustrating apparatus particularly designed for inlasting the wrapper about the edges of a middle sole of the type shown in Figs. 8 and 9; and

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary anism of Fig. 11.

Referring to the drawings, the numeral I designates a base, which maybe a metal casting or the like, designed to be mounted upon a bench or other appropriate support. This base has a uideway (Figs. 1 and 2), extending from its rear end towards its forward end, which receives a slide 2 carrying a last supporting block 3 provided with a spindle .4 upon which may be mounted a last'5 carrying the shoe upper 6. The slide 2 .is provided with a downwardly directed lug I plan view'of the mech- (Fig. 1) having a screw-threaded aperture which receives a screw-threaded adjusting rod'8 whose forward end is rotatably secured in a lug 9 projecting downwardly from the base I. The base I'also' supports a bracket I having an upwardly directed internally screw-threaded boss which receives thelower end of arod II whose upper and lowerpo'rtions are preferably screw-threaded with right and left pitch, respectively, the upper end of this rod I I entering a screw-threaded bore in a toe supporting member I2. By properly turning the rods 8 and II, the last support'and toe support may be relatively adjusted in order toiadapt the apparatus to receive shoes of various styles and sizes.

The base I i provided with a pair of laterally spaced upwardly directed guide bosses I3 and I4 provided with guide passages (which extend down through the base) for the reception of vertically slidingparallel rods 15 and I6 which are rigidly connected at their upper ends by a crossbar II. These rods are also connected at their lower ends by a second crossbar I8 to which is attached a link I9 whose lower end is pivotally secured to a treadlelever 20 (Fig. 1) pivotally supported at 2! and having a foot treadle, not shown, at its forward end by means of which the operator may depress the treadle lever and thus move the link I9 and the rodsl 5 and I6 downwardly. A tension spring 22, attached to the base I and to the treadle lever 20, tends to lift the treadle lever and thus to move the bar I8 and the rods I5 and I6 upwardly. V

Extending between the rods I5 and I 6 at a point between the base I and the crossbar I1 is a vertically movable crosshead 23 having tubular bosses 24 and 25 at its opposite ends, respectively, which receive the rods I5 and 'I 6 with a sliding fit. Collars 26 and 26 fixed to the rods I5 and I3, respectively, limit the downward movement of the crosshead 23. Between the bosses 24 and 25 and the crossbar I1, open coiled springs 27 and 23 are interposed, said springs embracing the upper portions of the rods I5 and I6 and tending to hold the bosses 24 and 25 in contact with the collars 26 and 26 respectively.

Secured to the central part of the crosshead 23 is a stem member 29 (Fig. 1) to which is attached a presser plate 39 of a size and contour such as .substantially to cover the entire forepart portion 1 of the shoe bottom. The crosshead 23 also carries a rearwardly directed rigid bracket arm 3 I having bearings at its rear end for a rock shaft 32. To this rock shaft is rigidly secured a tubular arm or sleeve 33 which receives a sliding stem carrying a roller 35. A pin 34 projecting from the stem into a slot in the sleeve 33 prevents the stem from turning relatively to the part 33, while a spring 33 within the part 33 tends to forcethe stem downwardly.

The rock shaft 32' has a second rigid arm 36 carrying a cam follower roll 3'! at its upper end which engages a cam slot 38 in a bracket 39 projecting down from the crossbar IT.

A manually actuable handle 40 has a yoke porsecured to their lower ends gripper devices 45,

such, for example, as illustrated in Fig. 3. As illustrated, the gripper devices comprises a pair of curved jaws 46 and 4'! preferably having their opposed surfaces knurled or roughened, the jaw 41 having a tail portion 48 and the jaw 43 having the tail portion 49, the jaws being pivotally united by a pin 53. The end of the flexible con nector 43 is secured to the end of the tail member 49 and passes freely through an opening in the end of the tail member 48. A spring 5!, interposed between the tail members, tends to close the jaws.

In the modified construction illustrated in Figs.

11 and 12, the base I and the rods I5 and I6, together with their guiding and actuating means, may be in general similar to the correspondingly numbered parts of Figs. 1 and 2. Likewise the last support 3 may be similar to that previously described, and a toe support like that of Fig. 1 may be provided if desired. 1

In this arrangement a crossbar 53 is rigidly secured to the upper ends of the rods I5 and I6, and to this crossbar is secured'a heel and shank pressing member 54, here shown as of angular shape having front and rear portion-s designed concomitantly to engage the heel and shank portion of a middle sole, and having a connecting element at its angle whereby it is adjustably united to the crossbar 53. The crossbar has a pair of laterally spacedforwardly directed lugs.

a duplex roller 5959. A rigid finger 60 enters between the adjacent ends of the roller-element 58 and has a bearing opening at its lower end for the shaft 58, and at its upper end is adjustably secured to a piston rod 6| connected at its rear end to a piston (not shown) arranged to slide in a cylinder 62 mounted upon the motor support. This cylinder '62 may be supplied with pressure fluid, for example, compressed air, the admission of which is controlled by a valve '64 which may be operated manually by a handle or by suitable connections (not shown) to the treadle which operates the bars l and It. The coil springs 63 tend to rock the motor support including the parts '51 about the pivots 55 so as to force the rollers 59 downwardly.

In the practice of the process, and referring first to the mechanism of Figs. 1 and 2, a middle sole M such as that illustrated in Figs. 5, 5' and 6 is first provided. This middle sole comprises a forepart portion F which is usually of some soft resilient material such as felt and which is of substantial thickness, for instance from T e to of an inch thick. A shank piece P is secured 'to this forepart portion F, the shank piece extending to the heel and constituting the heel end of the middle sole, and as illustrated in Fig. 5, is provided with a binding B extending around its heel end from the point 66 to the point 61, these points being slightly forward of the vertical plane of the breast surface 68 of the heel H of the completed shoe. The binding B may be of any suitable material but ordinarily need not be as wide as the wrapper W which conceals the edge of the forepart portion of the middle sole. The upper surface of the middle sole is preferably coated with adhesive, as indicated in Fig. 5 and this adhesive C also coats the edge of the middle sole.

The shoe upper U, shown as open at its heel end (Fig. 6), is assembled with and united to the socklining and/or insole S (Fig, 7) by an inseam I which also secures the lower margin of the strip or wrapper W to the insole and upper. After the parts have been thus united, the last 5 is inserted and the shoe is now ready to be mounted in the apparatus of Figs. 1 and 2 or equivalent means useful for supporting the shoe during the inlasting of the wrapper. It may here be noted that in this type of shoe the part S is commonly a thin, flexible socklining rather than .a true insole, but so far as the present invention is concerned, it is to be understood that the part S. whether referred to as an insole or sockliningjf may be a socklining, insole, or combination of socklining and insole according to the specific shoe construction which may be preferred.

When a middle sole M (adhesively coated upon both surfaces and on its edges), such as shown in Fig. 5 is used, the first step in the operation, after mounting the last upon the support is to perform what may be referred to as a spindling operation, that is to say, a relative orientation of the middle sole and upper so as to insure the overlapping of both forward ends of the binding B by the rear end portions of the wrapper W.

Preparatory to such adjustment, and after laying the middle sole upon the insole, the operator places his foot upon the treadle and part way depresses it, thus moving the crossbar l1 downwardly and causing the presser foot 30 to press lightly on the forepart of the middle sole; While thus held, the rear ends of the wrapper W may be grasped and the upper swung to right or left relatively to the last and middle sole until the ends of the binding are properly located relatively to the ends of the wrapper W. Then by further depression of the and eventually come to' rest upon the heel end of the middle sole. This movement of the roller '35 very firmly irons the shank portion of the middle sole down against the insole, and since the contacting surfaces of the middle sole and sock lining have been adhesively coated, the action of the roller 35 and the presse'r foot 30 is such as very firmly to unite these parts. I

The operator now opens the grippers 45 and engages them with the margin of the wrapper -W at opposite sides of the shoe, preferably atpoints adjacent to the junction o f 'the forepart "with the shank portion. These are the parts of 'the wrapper which are most difficult to must since at this point there is an abrupt reverse curvature of the edge of the insole. Having caused the grippers to engage the wrapper at these points, the operator then seizes the handle 40-, Swinging it downwardly and rearwardly, thus drawing the flexible connections 43 upwardl and applying upward stress to the grippers. The greater the stress the more firmly the grippers grasp the material so that there is no danger that the material will slip'out of the gripping aws. The wrapper material is iirst turned upwardly from its original position, as shown in '7, until it extends substantially Vertically upward, and since the flexible members is diverge downwardly from the connecting element 42-, this upward stress has a com onent tending to rhoirth grippers inwardly toward each other. This very effectively pulls the wrap er material into firm contact with the vertical edges of the compressed middle sole, and since these edges are adhesively coated, the wrapper is securely attached thereto in tensioned condition, it being recalled that at this time the middle sole is under heavy compression by the presser foot 29.

If desired, the grippers 45 may be detached and moved to other points alohg the wrapperand again actuatedt'o stress the wrapperrupwardly and inwardly at these new points. However, after having stressed the wrap er upwardly at points near the forward-end of the shank, it is usually sufficient to remove the shoe from the machine and complete the inlasting' of the wrapper, preferably by a method of inlasting such as described in the patent to Kamborian, No. 2,254,-

224, dated September 2, 1941, as applied to the above described and carried by the stem 29, has the pivoted rear extension 52 provided with "an upwardly directed central flange having a curved guide slot 53 designed to receive the roller 35 or its equivalent, the roller pressing theextension 52 against the middle sole as the roller moves downwardly and rearwardly. Such an arrangement may be desirable under certain conditions, forexample when rearward moj'i'em'ent of the roll in direct contact With the middle S018 is widesirable.

' of cement C.

7 being mounted, for example, in apparatus such as shown in Figs. 11 and 12. The rods I and 16 are now actuated by the operator to draw the crossbar 53 downwardly, thus bringing the heel and shank presser member 54 into forceable contact with the heel and shankportion of the middle sole, at the same time bringing the roller 59 into contact with the forepart of the middle sole. By'manipulation of the valve 64, the piston is caused tomove back and forth in the cylinder 2,393,991 I V V V supporting the lastWith the upper and'socklining assembled thereon, placing the middle sole in con tact with the under surface of thesocklining, applying compressive force to the forepart of the middle sole therebytemporarily to decrease'its thickness, and while the middle sole is so com pressed drawing portions of the wrapperrupwardly and inwardly concomitantly at a plurality of points thereby at said points to cause the wrapper to adhere to the edge of the middle sole.

' 3. Method of inlasting the wrapper of a platform type shoe which comprises as stepspr'ovidin a middle sole having its edges adhesivelycoated, supporting the last with the upper and socklining assembled thereon, placing the middle solein con- 7 tact with the under surface of the socklining, ap

plying compressive stress to the forepart of-the middle sole thereby temporarily to decrease its 62, thus causin the roller 59 to pass backand forth over the for'epart of the middle sole and applying ironing pressure thereto, the pressure 7 thus applied by the roller and by the part 54 causing th middle sole firmly to adhere to the insole. In this type of shoe the most dilficult point in lasting the wrapper is at the heel where the wrapper must be drawn snugly up about the rigid and deep heel member H'L Accordingly, after securing the middle sole in place, as above described, the operator attaches the gripper members 45 to the'heel portion of the wrapper, preferably at each side, respectively, of the rear end seam and then by manipulating, the actuating handle pulls the grippers upwardly, thus causing the wrapper to be turned upwardly and to be drawn snugly up and inwardly against the edge surfaces of the heel H. If desired, the grippers may be disengaged and moved forwardly to repeat this operation, particularly at points adjacent'to the forward end of the shank piece, but, if preferred, after causing the wrapper to be adhered firmly to the edge of the heelmember, the remainder of the wrapper may be inlasted in accordance with a method such as that described in the above-mentioned Kamborian patent.

While the methods herein described are conveniently carried out by the, use of apparatus such, as specifically disclosed and referred to, it is obvious that they may be carried out by other means than that shown, and it is further obvious that the apparatus may be modified as respects proportions, materials and specific arrangement of parts and by the substitution of equivalents thickness and to press it firmly against the socklining, ironing down the shank and heel portions of the middle sole into firm contact with the-insole, and, while holding the middle and inner soles in firm contact, stressing portions of the wrapper upwardly and inwardly thereby adhesivel to unite said stressed portions to the edge of the middle sole. 7

4. Method of inlasting the wrapper of a platform type shoe which comprises as step providing a middle sole having a soft cushion-like forepart and a substantially rigid heel portion and having its upper surface and its edge adhesively coated,

disposing the middle sole in contact with the socklining, applying pressure to the forepart and heel portions of the middle sole, seizing the margin of the wrapper at the heel portion of the upper and applying upward and inward'st'ress thereto such as to draw it upwardly and into adhesivecontact with the edge 'of the heel portion of the middle sole, and thereafter inlasting the wrapper at the shank and forepart portions of the shoe. r r s 5. Method of inlasting the wrapper-of a platform type shoe which comprises as steps providing a middle sole having a soft cushion-like forepart and a substantially rigid heel portion and having its upper surface and its edge adhesively coated,

disposing the middle sole in contact With the sock- V lining, so applyingforce to the heel portion of without departing from the spirit of the invention.

' 'I' claim:

1. Method of inlastin the wrapper of a platform type shoe which comprises as steps providing a middle sole having its edges adhesively coated, supporting the last with the upper and socklining assembled thereon, placing the middle sole in contact with the under surface of the socklining, applying compressive force to the forepart of the middle sole thereby temporarily to decrease its thickness and concomitantly to press it firmly against the socklining, and while the middle sole isso compressed drawing a portion of the wrapper 7 upwardly and inwardly thereby to adhere it to the edge of the middle so 2. Method of inlasting the wrapperof a platform type shoe which comprises as steps providing a middle sole having its edge adhesively coated,

the middle sole as firmlyto press it'against the socklining, ironing the forepart of the middle sole thereby to compress it and securely adhereiit. to the socklining, and, while holding the middle sole s and socklinin firmly in contact, applying upward 'and inward stress to the heel end of the wrapper thereby to turn the heel end of the wrapper upwardly and adhesively unite it tofilhe edg'eof the heel end of the'middle sole, and ing the wrapper at other portions of the shoe.

6. Method of inlasting the wrapper of a platform type shoe which comprises as steps providing a middle sloe, supporting the last with the upper and socklining assembled thereon, assembling the middle sole with the socklining, firmly holding the middle sole in contactwith'the socklining while concomitantly, at opposite sidesof the shoe, seizing and pulling portions of the wrapper upwardly'and into contact with the adhesively coated edge of the middle sole, and there after inlasting the remainder of the wrapperby causing gripping means progressively to grip and thereafter to release-narrow areas of the margin of the wrapper from point to point along the edge of the periphery of the shoe, and, while so gripping the marginal material, exerting posi-' tivepull thereon in a direction away from the last thereafterinlastbottom thereby to stretch the wrapper about the edge of the middle sole, and progressively wiping in each such stressed area of the wrapper.

'7. Method of inlasting the wrapper of a platform type shoe which comprises as steps providing a middle sole, supporting the last with the upper and socklining assembled thereon, assembling the middle sole with the socklining, firmly holding the middle sole in contact with the socklining while concomitantly at opposite sides of the shoe seizing and pulling portions of the wrapper upwardly and into contact with the adhesively coated edge of the middle sole, and thereafter inlasting the remainder of the margin of the wrapper by exerting positive stress at a selected part of the margin of the wrapper such as to draw the wrapper snugly about the edge of the middle sole, progressively displacing the point of application of such stress along the margin of the shoe and, as the point of application of stress advances, wiping the stressed wrapper material inwardly with respect to the edge of the middle sole.

8. Method of inlasting the wrapper of a platform type shoe which comprises as steps providing 'a middle sole having its edges adhesively coated, supporting the last with the upper and s'ocklining assembled thereon, placing the middle sole in contact with the under surface of the socklining, so relatively adjusting the heel end of the middle sole and the upper as to cause the rear ends of the wrapper to lap both ends of the binding of the heel portion of the middle sole, firmly clamping the middle sole to the socklining,

seizing the edge of the wrapper at opposite sides of the shoe at points adjacent to the junction of the shank and forepart portions, concomitantly applying stress at said points thereby to turn the wrapper upwardly, moving the points of seizure inwardly thereby adhesively to unite the wrapper to the edge of the middle sole, and thereafter completing the inlasting of the wrapper between said points of seizure.

9. Method of inlasting the wrapper of a platform type shoe which comprises as steps providing a middle sole having its edges adhesively coated, supporting the last with the upper and socklining assembled thereon, placing the middle sole in contact with the under surface of the socklining, firmly pressing and holding the middle sole against the socklining, applying upward stress to the wrapper concomitantly at points at opposite sides, respectively, of the shoe thereby to turn the wrapper upwardly at said points, moving the margin of the upwardly stressed wrapper inwardly thereby to cause adhesion of the wrapper and the edge of the middle sole, and thereafter completing the inlasting of the wrapper between said points by exerting positive pull at a selected point such as to draw the wrapper snugly about the edge of the middle sole, progressively displacing the point of application of said pull along the margin, and, as the point ofapplication of pull advances, wiping in the marginal materia1 of the wrapper just to the rear of the instant point of application of pull. v

JACOB S. KAMBORIAN. 

